We set up at La Ticla a couple days before Semana Santa when most of mainland Mexico descends on the beach. As we pulled up to the town before the turnoff we noticed a sign that announced a national surf competition during Easter weekend. This seemed alright to us as neither of us had seen this before. Ticla turned out to be a perfect place to hunker down as we were able to find a palapa with electricity and shade. Not to mention it had the perfect climate for us Wisconsin folk. Hot days and cool nights. If it hadn`t been for those damn swedes blaring their techno music till five in the morn, it might have been paradise. We were camped in what appeared to be a cattle stockade (a large open air palapa that had been sectioned off so that one could be stuck in the middle), but got to meet a lot of fun people. A group of guys pulled in from Guadalajara and started setting up camp next to ours. As far as I could see they hadn`t brought anything but their tent and beer so I tried to make a joke along the lines of, `no food, only beer?´ which immediately translated to Jay has beer in his hand. From then on we were friends and spent the next couple days hanging out and getting coached in Spanish slang. A local dog also adopted us as owners while we were there. He was known as Loco and that he was. He was chalk full of fleas and loved to sleep by our feet and in our chairs. He pretty much slept all day except when donkeys came near our sight. Loco hated donkeys and would chase them all day if needed. After our extended time at La Ticla we were ready to find a place where we both could surf.
We found this place after getting turned around and led in circles in the town of Lazaro Cardenas a few times. After finally finding the toll road, somehow we paid the toll and immediately exited to the twisty turny local highway. How this happened I have no idea, but we merged with the straight as an arrow toll road after about 40 minutes of winding through little villages. After a crazy turnoff, past a basketball field, futbol field, through a tiny village, two gates, we were at the beach. They call this place, The Ranch or Playa Capire. Either way, it is a great place. There are two competing restaurant/camping areas. We went with the first one, but happend to eat more at the second one. The lady at the second one makes these shimp quesadillas that appear to be fried in oil that make my mouth water just writing about them. And for a little less than 3 bucks for the whole meal, we figure you can`t go wrong.
We stayed at The Ranch for Brooke`s birthday which was quite fun. We were able to ride a wave together and she caught some of the best waves of her trip. I used my Dutch oven skills to make a pineapple upside-down cake that we shared with all who were camping. That night another couple made a run into the nearest town and we had a little beach campfire party. The next day we went 20 km south to La Saladita which is just west of Los Llanos. This was a really mellow surf based ¨town¨ that consisted of a few restaurants and bungalos. Paco, the owner of the restaurant we stayed next to strung out an extension cord and hung a light from the palm tree we were camped under so we could see after the sun went down. We really appreciated that, but decided we liked the wave and the tranquility of The Ranch. So after two nights at La Saladita we went into Zihautanejo to get our laundry done and check the internet. Zihautanejo must have been a cool little village in the Shawshank Redemption time, but for us it was a little tourist crazy. We returned to the Ranch where it was crazy with Texans taking day trips from Ixtapa. It seemed Texans don`t do anything unless it is big and loud. Four carloads showing up at 6:30 a.m. and not quieting down till they left at 3:00 p.m. They have all returned to their state and we have decided to stay for a while longer. We are right now at the little inland town of La Union that doesn`t appear to have any industry or water. I talked to one local, who said residents have to drive to Ixtapa/Zihaut to make a living since it isn`t fit for farming. They do have internet and enough little markets that we can resupply food and return to the Ranch for another couple nights. The climate in this area is nothing that us Wisconsin folk can get used to. I`m sure there are boatloads of people that would do anything to be in this climate, but the humid hot days and equally humid somewhat less hot nights have left us with less then full nights of sleep. I`ve actually thought nostagically about the cold Wisconsin weather.
We are constantly changing our plans for how we are going to return to the North, but right now they are drive down past Puerto Escondido and go up the middle and see some of colonial Mexico. We have even tossed around the idea of being in New Orleans for the end of Jazz Fest. Wishing everyone the best, love Jay and Brooke
Wednesday, April 06, 2005
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